The State of Nayarit is packed full of spectacular beaches, tasty waves, and exotic fruits. Sometimes I wonder if I will ever be desensitized to the wonders around me. The rainy season has left the countryside every shade of green imaginable. From Guadalajara to Las Islitas, Nayarit, from the highlands to sea level, the scenery is incredible.
I don’t get to the beach as much as I would like but when I see a big swell on the forecast I try to get organized, even if it’s just for one day. I leave before sunrise and have to be back in Guadalajara before 7 pm. The drive should be less than three hours if I can get out of Guadalajara before the morning traffic.
The drive is 250 kilometers (155 miles) with 230 km of easy, well-marked, and mostly straight toll-freeway driving. As you leave Guadalajara it’s still dark, but as the sun rises over the Tequila Volcano you can see agave fields come out of a low hanging cloud. A little further out of town the forest starts: oak, parota, even huge cacti. The scenery is filled with cornfields then another extinct volcano that has left a black, metamorphic rock landscape.
As you cross into the State of Nayarit and approach Ixtlan del Río, keep an eye out for the ostrich farm on the side of the freeway. The landscape change and there is more sugarcane and even more cornfields.
There is a macrolibremiento bypass that lets you go around Tepic, doing 100 km/h, rather than going through the city center. It just gets greener and more tropical as you go. On the backside of Tepic is an old textile mill with an arched aqueduct and brick furnace chimney tower. This is where the elevation drops rapidly and it gets intensely tropical.
The scenery changes to trees of banana and mango and billboards warn you to watch for big cats.
This is where you get your first glimpse of the ocean. The freeway turns to a local road that parallels the bay for another 5 minutes. Turn left at the intersection with the banana bread bakeries. Make sure to stop on the way out and pick up banana bread for your wife who is home watching the kid.
There are dozens of enramadas, or rustic kitchens usually with palm frond thatched roofs and plastic chairs with a Corona logo. The specialty is grilled whole fish, local oysters, and coconut water.
Look for restaurants that have lots of people. There are a couple of restaurants that look pretty slow during the week and aren’t turning their inventory over that quickly.
The beaches further inside the bay have very small waves that are great for the kids to play in. Most days, there are absolutely no waves at the first couple of beaches. This happened to be one of the biggest swells of the season and the waves out on the point were three-to-five-foot-tall. On the inside, the waves were one-to-two-foot-tall and reeling down the line with perfect form.
After the last enramada the mosquitos come out and it feels like you are driving into the estuary.
The road turns to unmaintained dirt, and lastly four-wheel drive only. The stretch of trail that you need four-wheel-drive for is only 300 yards long, but there are some good-sized rocks and some soft sand at the end.
Stoner’s Point is the very tip of the estuary. The river empties into the ocean just on the other side of the point. Some of the guys walk down from San Blas and swim across the river mouth. This is where the mosquitos become especially aggressive. During the early morning and late evening, the mosquitos become untolerable.
This is one of the longest waves in Mexico. It held a Guinness Record but the sand has since shifted and doesn’t connect like it used to. Even though it is no longer the longest wave in the world, it is still a very long wave. Check out this guy’s wave. I estimate that he rode this wave more than 500 meters. That is like a quarter-mile long ride.
Stoner’s Point is a very fickle wave. It only breaks a couple of times a year when the swell is absolutely maxing out. Keep your eye on the swell forecast to see if you can score this place. Las Islitas Nayarit is a treasure that you should visit even if the waves aren’t that big. I am sure that you will enjoy it.