Casa de los Abanicos in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara

The Colonia Americana Guadalajara: Neighborhood Walking Tour

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Walking the streets of Guadalajara’s Colonia Americana is a romantic experience. Much like the historic Downtown area, there is a wealth of architectural heritage. However, the Colonia Americana, Lafayette, and Chapultepec were built during a different era. The neighborhoods, or colonias de Guadalajara, were planned while contemplating a new philosophy about garden cities and the quality of life. Plus, this is where you will find the highest concentration of gourmet coffee, innovative kitchens, and hip nightlife options. The Colonia Americana Guadalajara is where young people prefer to spend their time because it espouses an urban cool.

In October of 2022, the Colonia Americana was named the coolest neighborhood in the world by Time Out Internacional travel editor, James Manning. The magazine was seeking to promote the best neighborhoods and incredible places to be right now with great local shops, restaurants, bars, and creative spaces.

Several local media outlets responded by documenting the crime problem in the neighborhood and highlighting the struggle that gentrification is inflicting. It is all too common for cell phones to be snatched out of the hands of distracted tourists by a pair of motoladrones (motorcycle thieves).

What is the Colonia Americana?

Well, it is a neighborhood, but it is also a lifestyle that reflects an urban reality. There are immaculately restored neoclassical mansions next to abandoned buildings with squatters. Parking spaces are hard to come by, but the bike lanes are plentiful, and fixed-geared bicycles are ubiquitous. The area has served as a laboratory for architects during the 20th century and entrepreneurs in the 21st. There are a number of successful brands that refined their concepts in the Colonia Americana before expanding.

The area is cool but edgy. You have to have your wits about you and pay attention to your surroundings because there is an army of motorcycle thieves looking for distracted pedestrians. The most common complaint about the Colonia Americana is the prevalence of motorcycle thieves snatching cell phones right out of the hands of unsuspecting tourists. They can milk a ton of money out of an unlocked or poorly locked cell phone.

Fountain on Avenida Chapultepec Guadalajara

Avenida Chapultepec Guadalajara

Chapultepec is a busy six-lane avenue running north to south from Avenida Mexico through Avenida Niños Heroes to Avenida Agustín Yáñez, with a large center median that has been turned into a park. On the south end, there is a monument, the Glorieta de los Niños Héroes, that has been taken over by protestors and renamed the monument of the disappeared. On the north end, there is another monument and plaza that runs along with Avenida México. There are tall trees, fountains, and open-aired markets for your enjoyment.

Editor’s Choice: Best Street Art Tour of Guadalajara

Karen Mora is one of the authorities on street art in Mexico and knows where the best murals are located and how to have fun.

Avenida Chapultepec can be considered the bar district so the atmosphere is going to be very different on Friday night and Sunday morning. Many afternoons and evenings there is an open-aired cultural flea market. It is a very comfortable place to hang out, especially on Sundays when the streets are closed to motor vehicle traffic. Sometimes people refer to the area around the street as Chapultepec but I am going to use the word only to refer to that one street.

There is a crazy rotation of bars coming and going along Chapultepec but the ones that have been there for a while are El Grillo (Classic Dive Bar), El Callejon de los Rumberos (Salsa dance club), Bananas (Bar to watch the game), Cevercería Chapultepec (cheap drinks and food), and Orange Bar and Saloon (pool hall).

My favorite places to hang out are not on Avenida Chapultepec itself but on the side streets of Morelos, Lopez Cotilla, Lerdo de Tejada, and Libertad.  

Olivera Cocktail Bar and The Black Sheep Pub in The Colonia Americana
Olivera Cocktail Bar and The Black Sheep Pub in Casa Aguilar (1921)

Colonia Americana, Colonia Lafayette, Colonia Moderna and Colonia Reforma Guadalajara

Historically, the four square blocks to the west of Chapultepec were called the Reforma neighborhood (Colonia Reforma), and the six square blocks to the east were the Colonia Americana.

The entire area from Avenida Federalismo to the Glorieta Minerva was referred to as the Lafayette or the colonias de Guadalajara because these were the first suburbs.

Colonia Moderna is the triangle between Avenida Niños Heroes, Avenida Washington, and Calzada del Federalismo.

Today, it is much more common to hear the term Colonia Americana applied to vast swaths of the area from Calzada del Federalismo to Avenida Unión, and beyond.

When was the Colonia Americana built?

Much of Downtown Guadalajara’s architectural charm comes from buildings that were constructed when Mexico was still a part of New Spain like the Guadalajara Cathedral. The Colonia Americana, by contrast, was built after Mexico gained independence and after the Reform War. These are not colonial-era buildings. There are examples of neo-baroque or neo-viceroyalty elements in the big houses but the 17th and 18th-century churches in Downtown Guadalajara are different because they were government buildings or churches and not private residences.

Historic mansion with neo-baroque elements in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara
Mansion with neo-baroque elements

While there was a little bit of construction in the last few years of the 19th century, the Colonia Americana is a better representation of the first half of the 20th century. It is interesting to look at architecture through the prism of historical trends. The Porfiriato (administration of Porfirio Díaz), the Revolution, and the post-WWII boom all had different styles and even construction technology.

The administration (dictatorship) of Porfirio Díaz coincides with the original development of these neighborhoods, much like the Colonia Roma and Condesa in Mexico City. In fact, there are many similarities in the waves of gentrification that have affected each neighborhood.

One of the most important architects responsible for the splendor of the Colonia Americana was Ernesto Fuchs. More than just an architect, he was an engineer, inventor, and artist who left his mark on dozens of important historical buildings in Guadalajara for a unique European style. He even invented the molds used to adorn many of the mansions in the Colonia Americana.

There is a great book that was written about Mexico City’s Colonia Roma that easily could have taken place in the Colonia Americana. It is called Las Batallas en el Desierto by the poet José Emilio Pacheco. There is also a movie based on the book and a song by Café Tacuba. I find 20th-century Mexican history fascinating and the Colonia Americana is like a time capsule to help you experience it.

Architecture in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara

In the last years of the 19th century and the first decade of the 20th century, regionalist mansions were built. They were inspired by an eclectic mix of European and maybe even a little Moorish influence. Later, in the post-revolutionary era, came art deco, modernism, art nouveau, functionalism, and brutalist. 

Visually, the neighborhood is stunning because of the architecture and the consideration that was given to green spaces and public plazas. The guy who developed the area said that it was the first sanitary neighborhood (planned with indoor plumbing) in all of Mexico. One problem is that this beautiful and old architecture needs a lot of specialty maintenance work that is very expensive. Many buildings are in disarray while developers wait in the wings ready to swoop in as soon as the buildings fall down so they can build another tower.

One of the most beautiful parts of the Colonia Americana is that it contains unique properties and independent businesses. There are a lot of very cool people with an artistic vision of the community. The area has redeveloped itself over the years but if you want to see the history of Mexico in the 20th century, come walk the streets of the Colonia Americana. Drink coffee in the morning and wine in the evening after finding another wonderful restaurant hidden on a side street.

Porfirio Díaz and the Porfiriato

President Porfiro Díaz is a controversial figure in Mexican history. He fought with Benito Juarez to expel the French intervention and later became president after Juarez died young. He was president for 35 years during a period of relative stability and economic development for the ruling elite. However, 35 years were a few too many and the Mexican revolution forced him into exile in France where he lived out the last few years of retirement.

Benito Juarez’s liberal constitutional reforms paved the way for the westward expansion of Guadalajara. The reform war took a great deal of land from the church including what is today known as the Ex-Convento del Carmen on Avenida Juarez just before Avenida Federalismo. The old convent had more land than they knew what to do with and had capped the westward expansion of the city.

The reforms in the 1860s took much of the unused land from the church. A prison and a school were built in what used to be the Convento del Carmen’s orchard. Today, there are two important University of Guadalajara properties where the convent orchard once stood.

In the 1930s the prison was torn down to connect Avenida Vallarta with Avenida Juarez creating, at the time, the most important thoroughfare in the city. This was the road that connected Guadalajara with Mexico City and Morelia. The arches next to the Glorieta Minerva commemorate this event.

The westward expansion of the city gave birth to the first Colonias: Colonia Americana, Colonia La Lafayette, Colonia Moderna, and the Colonia Reforma.

Some of my favorite buildings in the Colonia Americana

On Sundays, Avenida Vallarta is closed to motor vehicles so that cyclists and pedestrians can enjoy the area. My favorite way to appreciate the waves of architectural heritage is to ride my bike or skateboard from the Glorieta Minerva to Downtown Guadalajara along Avenida Vallarta. There is no better way to spend a Sunday morning in Guadalajara steeped in history and culture.

Minute 2:00 to 3:50 show the Lafayette neighborhoods

Another great walk would be to start at Cafe RinTinTin for coffee, then swing by De La O Cantina for a drink, make your way to the University of Guadalajara’s Museum of the Arts, see the Templo Expiatorio, and head back up Calle Libertad to the Casa de Los Abanicos. There is a lot of architecture and some great murals along that route.

Templo Expiatorio de Guadalajara

Things to do in Guadalajara Templo Expiatorio

The Templo Expiatorio del Santísimo Sacramento is a wonderful place to start looking at the architecture of the Colonia Americana. While it is just outside of what most people consider the Colonia Americana, the construction of a major new church helped promote the development of the new neighborhood. The Temple was started in 1897 but took 75 years to finish because of the Mexican Revolution, the Cristero War, and a general lack of resources.

Porfirio Díaz brought a famous Italian architect by the name of Adamo Boari to Mexico to build churches, personal monuments, the Correos de Mexico building, and even the Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico City. He loved the gothic temples of Europe and commissioned similar churches in San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, Michoacan, and Mexico City.

The pillars of the temple were carved by hand in a style similar to that which was employed in the Middle Ages. If you are interested in old churches, please read the Ken Follet novel Pillars of the Earth about the masons who built the great cathedrals of 12th-century Europe. While I was reading the book, I would come down to the Expiatorio to touch the stone pillars, think about the people who carved them, and what Guadalajara was like in 1897.

hand carved stone columns in the Templo Expiatorio

The mosaics were made in the Vatican mosaic factory. The stained glass windows were imported from France and the clock with all of its music, lights, and animated apostles was imported from Germany.

I recommend visiting the temple early in the day or late in the afternoon, while the sun is low in the sky, so you can see the stained glass in all its glory. The church is spectacular and so different from the colonial-era churches in the historic downtown.

La Casa de los Abanicos

Casa de los Abanicos in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara
Casa de los Abanicos by Guillermo de Alba 1903

Avenida Libertad is one of the most enjoyable streets to walk in Guadalajara because of the mature trees, wide sidewalks, and breathtaking architecture. The crown jewel of casona (mansion) architectural glory in the Colonia Americana is the Casa de los Abanicos.

Treelined Calle Libertad in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara

The mansion dates back to 1903 and was built in a French regionalist style that was popular with Porfirio Díaz and thus his circle of cronies. The home was purchased by Manuel Cuesta Gallardo, a large hacienda owner and the last Porfirian governor of the State of Jalisco.

Manuel Cuesta Gallardo is said to have used the house for romantic escapades far away from prying eyes of the hacienda. Our tour guide said that there used to be tunnels connecting the Casa de los Abanicos to a nearby property where Cuesta Gallardo kept his lovers. It is hard to understate the social implications of adultery in a highly traditional and conservative society.

Governor Cuesta Gallardo would not be governor for long. The unrest of the Mexican Revolution would run him out of town less than a year after being elected (appointed) to the position.

The name, Casa de los Abanicos, comes from the exterior fencing that is shaped like a folding hand fan. This detail was not in the original design but was added some years later.

The building has changed hands many times and at one point was left abandoned. A consortium of conservation-minded businessmen bought the house towards the end of the 20th century. The group renovated and restored the property to be used as an event space and to house the university club. Today, it is a popular wedding venue.

Museo de las Artes de la Universidad de Guadalajara

University of Guadalajara's Museo de las Artes

The MUSA (Museo de las Artes de la Universidad de Guadalajara) is one of the best muesums in Guadalajara. The building itself is a work of art but the also plan exceptional exhibitions that rival the best in the region. There are two impressive Jose Clemente Orozco murals that date back to the 1930s.

Versace Building

The Versace Building in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara

Avenida Vallarta has a number of beautiful mansions, many of which have been immaculately maintained and used for commercial purposes. If you have seen the Netflix series Narcos Mexico then you are already familiar with the former owner of this building. The property that is located at Avenida Vallarta #1339 was decommissioned in 1997, abandoned for many years, and later renovated as a boutique retail establishment and event hall.

Casa José Guadalupe Zuno

Another crazy story that we can watch on Netflix involves the children of José Guadalupe Zuno. José Guadalupe Zuno himself was the mayor of Guadalajara and later the governor of Jalisco. He was a founding member of the re-inaugurated University of Guadalajara. He established the first crew of firefighters and even the first zoo.

Watch Narcos Mexico on Netflix to see how the son of a former governor, brother-in-law of President Luis Echeverría would die in a federal US prison.

Casa Zuno is located on the corner of Avenida Unión and Calle José Guadalupe Zuno, and it is unmissable. The house was inspired by conversations with famous artists such as José Clemente Orozco and Gerardo Murillo (AKA Dr. Atl). The baroque accents are reminiscent of the Santa Monica Temple in Downtown Guadalajara while the exterior covering of red tezontle (volcanic igneous rock) was a locally sourced building material. This is the best example of neo-viceroyalty in the Colonia Americana.

Best Restaurants in the Colonia Americana

This is going to be tough and really subjective. I love the neighborhood but I don’t have room to write about every great restaurant in the area.

I have spent a lot of time talking about food and architecture with my friend Bernie of RinTinTin Cafe. There are few people who understand the Colonia Americana better than he does. Plus, he is a true epicurean and operates one of the best bakeries in the city.

Heirloom tomato salad with burrata and cherries at Allium Guadalajara

Restaurante Allium is one of the best restaurants in Guadalajara for farm-to-table and ingredient-focused cuisine. Chef Adolfo Galnares is from Mexico State/City and went to school in New York at the Culinary Institute of America. He keeps a kitchen garden on the roof of the restaurant and has access to some of the best artisanal products in Mexico. He is a nice guy and a great chef.

Sacromonte Restaurant in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara

El Sacromonte is one of Guadalajara’s favorite restaurants. This location launched one of the most successful restaurant groups in the city and they even cooked for Pope Juan Paul II when he came to visit in 1979. The menu is traditional and historic. This is where I like to take my mother-in-law for her birthday. She is one of the best traditional cooks that I know and she always finds something classic to tell me stories about.

La Panga del Impostor Restaurant in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara

If you are interested in seafood you should have a look at the Panga del Impostor. The menu was done by Antonio DeLivier of the fantastically popular TV Azteca cooking show, Cocineros Mexicanos. The aguachile de camaron seco is out of this world and there are great ice creams.

A newcomer to the neighborhood is Habanero Negro. The theme is Yucatan-style food with an emphasis on creative cocktails.

If you are into sushi and retro Benihana-style Japanese food, then have a look at Suehiro. The owner is from Japan but has been in Guadalajara for decades. The place is enormous and is a longtime local favorite. SSAM is excellent Korean food and Siam is decent Thai.

In case you are looking for a nice piece of meat, there are Hueso (high-end), Cortazar (fanciful), and Res Publica (a parking lot popup that never left).

Pig’s Pearls is just outside of the Americana, but they have the best burgers in the city with an excellent selection of craft beers.

Venison and mole at Tikuun Restaurant in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara

Lastly, Tikuun Comedor Local is one of my favorite places to eat in all of Mexico. Chef Carlos Espinosa is a specialist in regional Mexican cuisine. You can expect to see a lot of unique moles, exotic meats, and high-end wine on the menu.

Tacos Don José in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara

Tacos Don José are some of the best tacos in the city. They are known for having a huge mound of panela cheese that they put on their tacos. The birria tacos are pretty good too.  

Where to Get a Drink in the Americana

I feel like cantinas dominate the Americana. There are some good cocktail bars but the cantinas mesh well with the historic architecture.

De La O Cantina is a modern interpretation of a classic cantina. They have pulque, aguamiel, tepache (traditional fermented drinks), and some of the most artisanal spirits that are made. Plus, the tiki-themed Sundays are fun.

Saloon del Bosque is a classic cantina with waiters in long-sleeve white shirts with bowties. The old school Mexican bar food is popular too. The cantina is housed in a historic old manor that feels like a step back in time. If you are going to tour the Casa José Guadalupe Zuno, make sure to stop by before to get a drink.

If you have an interest in agave spirits, you have to schedule a tasting at Mezonte. Pedro Jiménez is one of the world’s foremost experts on agave spirits and you will thoroughly enjoy his talks. Mezonte is more of a classroom with Mezcal that is only open a few hours a day if at all. It is best to make reservations. If you want to hang out at a Mezcal bar, head over to Mezcalería Pare de Sufrir.

Oliveria, Guilty, and Fat Charlie are the best cocktail bars in the city. Pigalle is regarded as both a great cocktail bar and a craft beer bar.

If you want to get a beer, Patan Alehouse is the first place to hit. Peter Brown is one block further down and Casa Trapiche (Cerveceria Colima) is three more. That is a pretty good Guadalajara pub crawl.

Romea is Guadalajara’s favorite wine bar.

There is no shortage of great coffee to be found in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara. RinTinTin Cafe has amazing coffee and some of the best-baked goods you can find. I got an espresso at El Terrible Juan that completely changed how I taste espresso and sent me on the hunt for coffee with floral notes. Neretta Café is a micro-roaster and also has great gelato. Laboratorio Singular has a great selection of international origins and the owner is buddies with my favorite coffee in San Diego, Bird Rock Coffee Roasters. I really enjoy the patio at El Vago Imperial. Gabinete is by one of the partners of palReal and serves Cafe Estelar. palReal has a little location, palRealito, with just coffee at Vía Libertad (what used to be called Mercado Mexico).

And then there is Fitzroy Espresso Bar. They bring in baristas and coffee from the best coffee shops in Mexico to throw parties and stage events. Their breakfast menu is awesome, the property is a classic, and they have a secret tequila bar upstairs. El Gallo Altanero is a speakeasy-like patio with one of the best selections of fine tequilas you can find. They stress quality over quantity and love to highlight small, local brands that make tequila as it was made in the old days. The tequila cocktails are pretty spectacular as well.

There are more buildings, restaurants, and coffee shops than I could ever mention in just one article. These are some of my favorites. Let me know in the comments what your favorites are.

The Best Hotels in the Colonia Americana

There are a ton of options when it comes to looking for a place to stay in Guadalajara. I have rented rooms, stayed in Airbnbs, and experienced dope hotels. The coolest experiences tend to have cool design that acknowledges the history of the neighborhood. There is a specialty coffee shop and a cool restaurant on just about every block.

Casa Habita (Formally Casa Fayette)

⭐️ Rating: 9.0 /10 | Neighborhood: Americana | View on

The coolest place to stay in the Colonia Americana is the Casa Habita on Calle Miguel Lerdo de Tejada. One of the best Mexican hotel groups renovated an old mansion, put a tower next to it, and recreated a golden era. The place is located within walking distance of everything and they even have bikes for their guests to use.

The original property was built in 1940 and the tower was added in 2015 as a boutique hotel. The Colonia Fayette is an architectural treasure with dozens of well-preserved 20th-century mansions of different styles. The Original Casa Habita Hotel has a lot of art deco glamor with some regionalist or eclectic accents.

The Casa Fayette Restaurant has excellent food and design that evokes emotion. It is just plain fun. The last time I was there I got to talk with the chef about what he was growing on the rooftop garden and the sorts of heirloom ingredients that he likes to use. Expect to see seasonal recipes and recipes that you know but are somehow a little different. Like pumpkin seeds and avocado on a Cesar Salad instead of croutons.

The pool is known for parties on the weekends when it gets crowded. It is very small. However, during the week it is a great place to host a social event with your friends. 

Villa Ganz Boutique Hotel

⭐️ Rating: 9.4 /10 | Neighborhood: Americana | View on

Villa Ganz is cataloged as the first boutique hotel in Guadalajara dating back over 30 years. There are only 10 rooms in the restored old mansion. The rooms are tasteful yet elegant with very comfortable rooms.

The hotel is located in the heart of the Lafayette neighborhood just a block away from the Colonia Americana. The is one of the most walkable areas in Mexico with a major selection of excellent restaurants, bars, cafes, and shops. The Gallo Altanero tequila bar, ‘World’s Best Bars’ winner, is less than two blocks away.

There is a lot of architectural heritage in the area.

Demetria Bungalows

⭐️ Rating: 8.8 /10 | Neighborhood: Lafayette | View on

The Demetria Bungalows are located in the heart of the Lafayette neighborhood which is a mosaic of architectural history. The Bungalows themselves are a piece of that history dating back to 1936 and employing an eclectic local style.

While the exterior is vintage, the interior of the bungalows is modern and comfortable. They all have minikitchens and lend themselves to a longer stay.

The neighborhood is one of the coolest in the world and gets lumped in with the Colonia Americana. It is only two blocks to the Gallo Altanero tequila bar, two blocks to Allium Restaurant, and two blocks to Avenida Chapultepec. There is nothing more walkable than this section of General San Martín Street. I am getting hungry just thinking about all the places there are to eat and drink nearby.

Hotel Bellwort

⭐️ Rating: 8.4 /10 | Neighborhood: Americana | View on

The Bellwort is a wonderful new addition to the boutique hotels in Guadalajara. After a serious remodel, the 44-room hotel opened in early 2021. The building was originally designed by architect Julio de la Peña in 1967 as a modernest apartment complex. The remodel has highlighted the modernist movement of architecture in Guadalajara while adding some luxury finishes.

Located Avenida Union (the continuation of Avenida de las Americas), the Bellwort is is a very walkable section of the Lafayette neighborhood just blocks from the Colonia Americana. It is one block away from the famous Saloon del Bosque Cantina and La Panga del Impostor seafood restaurant. There is no shortage of exceptional places to explore on foot.

There is a small heated outdoor pool on the second floor and a nice hotel gym adjacent to the pool.

Hotel Velvet Plaza

⭐️ Rating: 9.2 /10 |📍 Neighborhood: Arcos Vallarta | 🏩 View on

I was very impressed with the major remodel that went into the Hotel Velvet Plaza. The property is lovely but the location is incredible and the price can’t be beaten. It is a short walk to the Minerva traffic circle and the Guadalajara arches. Two blocks in the other direction is Cafe palReal which has the best breakfast and coffee in the city.

The hotel restaurant is called the Caneva de Andrea. It is one of the most under-the-radar Italian restaurants in Guadalajara. My friend from Rome is really good friends with the Italian owner and says it is the most authentic Italian eatery in Guadalajara.

On Sundays, the Via Recreactiva (car-free Sundays) rolls down Avenida Vallarta in front of the hotel making this a perfect place to rent a bike and cruise the coolest neighborhood in the world.

Hotel Isabel

⭐️ Rating: 9.4 /10 | Neighborhood: Colonia Americana | View on

Last but not least, the Hotel Isabel in the coolest neighborhood in the world, the Colonia Americana. It is cheap, clean, and a great place to meet cool people. The building feels more like an apartment complex than a hotel. There are common areas with barbeques, tables and chairs, and a small pool. I wouldn’t recommend the hotel for families with small children because of the pool.

There are a limited number of safe parking places in front of the rooms where I would feel safe leaving my vehicle full of luggage overnight.

This hotel is a great deal and one of the best cheap hotels in Guadalajara.

How to get to the Colonia Americana de Guadalajara

The Colonia Americana is right in the middle of the Guadalajara Metropolitan Area. It is a reasonable walk from Downtown Guadalajara or an enjoyable carriage ride from the Plaza Guadalajara. On Sundays, the best way to get to the Colonia Americana is to ride a bike while Avenida Vallarta is shut down to vehicle traffic.

The easiest way to get the Guadalajara Airport is with Uber. The best way to get to the Colonia Americana from the Guadalajara Airport is with an official taxi. The same goes for the Central Nueva bus terminal. I usually take an Uber there and take an official taxi back. It is possible to ride the metro to Guadalajara Centro Histórico and walk or take an Uber from there.

Street art in the Colonia Americana Guadalajara

Some Final Thoughts on the Colonia Americana Guadalajara

The Colonia Americana is one of the coolest neighborhoods in Guadalajara if not the entire world. While there may be some security issues, that should not keep you from planning a visit. The benefits far outway the risks. There is a wealth of history, culture, and food to explore.

Thanks for reading and have a great trip.

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